Embroidery is a rewarding craft, but every sewist eventually meets the challenge of working on “difficult” materials—those that stretch, slip, tear, or simply don’t behave. Whether you’re stitching on luxurious leather, tricky vinyl, delicate sheers, airy netting, or even unexpected surfaces like paper, knowing the right embroidery techniques (and stabilizers!) makes all the difference.
Let’s break down how to conquer each material so your embroidery looks professional every time.
The Challenge: Leather and vinyl don’t heal. Once you put a needle hole in them, it’s there forever. They’re also thick and can resist smooth stitching.
The Technique:
Needle choice: Use a sharp leather needle or a size 90/14 Topstitch needle.
Stitch design: Opt for lighter designs with fewer dense fills—too many stitches can perforate and tear the material.
Hooping: Skip the hoop if possible! Instead, float the fabric by hooping the stabilizer and using temporary adhesive spray, or use a sticky-backed Tear-a-Way stabilizer to hold the leather or vinyl in place.
Stabilizer Tip: A cut-away stabilizer works well for stability. For vinyl, consider adding a topping (like water-soluble film) so stitches don’t sink.
The Challenge: Sheer fabrics love to pucker and stretch, which can ruin delicate embroidery.
The Technique:
Needle choice: A fine, sharp needle (size 70/10), do not use your auto threader with this size needle
Stitch design: Choose airy, open designs like outlines or light florals. Heavy fill stitches overwhelm sheer fabrics.
Hooping: Always hoop carefully with stabilizer to avoid distortion.
Stabilizer Tip: Use a water-soluble stabilizer underneath. Once rinsed away, your embroidery will look like it’s floating on the fabric. For extra support, pair with a lightweight tear-away.
The Challenge: With more air than fabric, netting and tulle give embroidery stitches nothing to hold onto.
The Technique:
Needle choice: Small needle, sharp point.
Stitch design: Stick with small motifs—think stars, flowers, or initials. Dense or large designs will collapse the fabric.
Hooping: Hoop the stabilizer, not the fabric. Float the netting on top with temporary adhesive spray.
Stabilizer Tip: A strong water-soluble stabilizer or heat-away stabilizer is your best friend here. After removal, stitches look like they’re suspended in air.
The Challenge: Paper isn’t flexible and can tear easily, but it creates stunning embroidery for cards, scrapbooks, and invitations.
The Technique:
Needle choice: A sharp universal or embroidery needle (80/12).
Stitch design: Choose simple line or redwork-style designs with minimal density.
Hooping: Hoop stabilizer, then float the paper on top, lightly taped at the edges.
Stabilizer Tip: Use tear-away stabilizer—it supports the paper without interfering with your finished piece.
Picking the right stabilizer can make or break your embroidery project:
Cut-Away Stabilizer: Best for heavy or stretchy fabrics (leather, vinyl).
Tear-Away Stabilizer: Great for paper and firm fabrics that don’t stretch.
Water-Soluble Stabilizer: Perfect for sheer, netting, or delicate fabrics where you don’t want stabilizer left behind.
Heat-Away Stabilizer: Works for tricky sheer or mesh fabrics when water can’t be used.
Pro Tip: When in doubt, test on a scrap before committing to your main project. That small step can save hours of frustration!
Embroidery techniques vary widely depending on the material, but with the right stabilizer, needle, and design choice, you can embroider on almost anything. From the sleek surface of vinyl to the airy delicacy of tulle, every fabric has its quirks—and now you know how to master them.
So go ahead—grab that piece of leather, float that netting, or even try stitching on paper. The more you experiment, the more embroidery possibilities you’ll unlock!